Linoleum floor cleaner

Damp mop using 1/4 cup vegetable oil-based liquid soap in 2 gallons warm water.

Vinyl floor cleaner

Damp mop using 1 cup vinegar in 2 gallons warm water.

No-wax floor cleaner

Add 1/2 cup vinegar to 2 tablespoons vegetable oil-based liquid soap in 1 gallon of hot water. Mix, mop and wipe clean.

Tile floor cleaner

Mix 1 cup vinegar with 1 gallon hot water. Mix, mop and wipe clean.

Wood floor cleaner

• For unvarnished floors, damp mop with mild vegetable oil soap. Or try 1/4 cup liquid vegetable oil-based soap, 1/2 teaspoon glycerin, 1/4 cup white distilled vinegar and 2 gallons warm water.

• For varnished floors, or no-wax floors such as polyurethane or Swedish finishes, damp mop using one part vinegar to 10 parts water.

Heel mark remover

Make a paste of 1/2 cup baking soda and enough vegetable oil-based soap to make a paste. Test mix on a small portion of the scuff mark by washing and rinsing well. If the floor finish is removed, you may be able to restore it using 1/2 cup cornstarch and enough water to make a paste. Rub this mixture into the spot and let it dry. Buff to a polish.

Floor Covering World. Floor and Carpet Cleaners. August 11, 2011. http://www.floorcoveringworld.com/floor-cleaning-info/floor-and-carpet-cleaners/

When applying a floor covering to your sub floor you have quite a large selection of materials to choose from. Terrazzo, vinyl tile, vinyl sheet goods, hardwood, laminate, and carpet; just to name a few. Each has its own installation specifics but let’s take a look at how we accomplish the task of installing carpet over concrete.

Leveling
The first thing you want to do is take a long look at the concrete surface. The padding and carpet can mask some imperfections, but as long as you are doing it, why not do it right? Any noticeable bumps or lumps should be taken off. This is a simple job with a cold chisel and a hammer. Make sure to wear those safety glasses.
Are there any deep spots or valleys? These you should skim with thinset to bring the concrete surface level. You can apply a second coat if you need to but unless the fault was very bad you should not have to.
Tack Strips
While that is setting up you can go to work installing your tack strips. Tack strip is a wooden strip with small metal “teeth” angled out on one side and has small concrete nails partially set into it. The purpose is to grab the carpet where it meets the wall and keep it tight.
The tack strips need to go everywhere the border of your carpet is to anchor it in place. There is no need to get fancy with it; I usually just cut them with a pair of tin snips. Keep them about one quarter of an inch away from the wall (if new construction) or from the existing baseboard (if you are remodeling). Just put them in place and hammer in the cement nails. Do not tap; give them a good whack and drive them home the first time.
Padding
Now it is time to install the carpet padding. Roll it out over the entire area to be padded going right up to the edge of the tack strips. Wherever you make seams, connect them with wide, clear plastic tape. If you were going over a plywood sub floor you would staple it down but it is not necessary over concrete.
Now you want to bring your roll of carpet into the room. Roll it out leaving about one half inch over the tack strip you are squaring to and to the end walls. If there is more real estate on the floor surface, roll it out again with the side edges abutting. Also trim it off using the one half inch rule. Where the edges are contacting, use carpet tape and a carpet iron to join the seams. It should appear as if there were no seam at all. If you see a seam, re-do it now.
Borders
Ok, now the entire room is covered with carpet – it is time to take care of the borders and make sure we have all the loose spots out of the field. Start in any corner and use a knee kicker to pull the carpet in the direction the wall, and attach it to the tack strip.
Trim off any excess, leaving about 1/2″ to 3/4″ lip of carpet all alongside the walls. Wedge the lip straight down between the tack strip and your baseboard using a putty knife.
Now use a carpet stretcher to tack in the other corners. Go back to the first corner and work your way down the wall with the knee kicker fine tuning every tacked corner.

Floor Covering World. Installing Carpet Over Concrete. August 11, 2011. http://www.floorcoveringworld.com/flooring-over-concrete/installing-carpet-over-concrete/

One of the biggest things to hit the commercial building industry ever, the United States Green Building Council’s Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) program has no doubt changed the way buildings are conceived, designed and built. That goes for products as well; not only how they are conceived and manufactured, but how they are marketed and sold as well.

Navigating LEED, which helps create more sustainable and environmentally friendly buildings by steering architects, designers, developers and end users toward sustainable practices, processes and products, can be somewhat confusing for different product categories. FCW Commercial’s LEED Handbook intends to take some of the mystery out of the LEED/flooring relationship by category.

Laminate
Laminate flooring can contribute LEED points to projects for its high concentration of recycled content, its contribution to healthy indoor environments and if the manufacturer participates in certified environmentally friendly forest management programs.

“Laminate has a lot of benefits,” said Leo Alberts, a Philadelphia-based contractor that specializes in multi-family units. “Laminate provides a stunning wood look without having to cut down an exotic tree, and it’s composed from wood industry scrap — that’s a plus, right there. Then, once it’s down, it doesn’t create mold or mildew. You can just sweep it. And to top it off, if you move you can pop it up and take it with you.”
Below is a listing of the LEED Credits that apply to laminate flooring.

Certified Wood: 1 point
Laminate flooring that is composed of Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified wood products contribute 1 point to LEED projects for promoting environmentally friendly forest management.

Low-emitting Materials/Indoor Environment Quality: 1 point
FloorScore certified laminate flooring contributes 1 point to LEED projects for promoting healthy indoor air quality. Laminate floors install without adhesive and are maintained without harsh chemicals.

Recycled Content: 2 points
Composed on average of 75 percent recycled material, laminate floors can contribute 2 points to LEED projects for its recycled content. Under credit MR4, products containing 10 percent recycled content receive 1 point while products composed of 20 percent or more receive 2 points.

Environmentally Preferable Products: 8 points
Laminate flooring can earn MR 2 credits if they are certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) and/or contains 25 percent recycled content. If the laminate floor represents 45 percent of the floor area it qualifies for an extra point. Additional half points are also available if laminate covers 90 percent of the total floor space, is SCS FloorScore certified or produced locally.

Resilient
After an extensive study, the U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC) determined that vinyl flooring is no more harmful to the environment than alternative products without PVC but the category remains stigmatized and does not contribute directly to LEED points.

“Vinyl is addressed a few ways and contributes to projects for its durability and lifecycle benefits but we don’t recognize the product itself,” said Kellsey Mullen, director of residential business development, USGBC.

Five years ago, the USGBC considered establishing negative LEED points for vinyl flooring but was swayed by industry lobbying and its own investigation. Today, the USGBC has over 40 “Pilot Credit” programs for vinyl flooring, mostly dealing with the industry’s recycling, reclamation and improved manufacturing capabilities.

“After an exhausted study, the results show there is no evidence that vinyl products are more harmful to the environment,” said Bill Freeman, a consultant for the Resilient Floor Covering Institute. “There are now more than 40 Pilot Credits, including Pilot Credit No. 2, for source reduction of dioxins and halogenated organic compounds — that includes flooring manufactured with PVC. There have also been 11 LEED projects that have signed up to participate in a pilot credit program to determine if alternative flooring made without PVC has a lesser impact on the environment and can perform just as well as vinyl flooring.”

Carpet
When it comes to choosing floor covering for a commercial setting, carpet not only adds fashion and comfort, but can also contribute to LEED certification in a variety of ways. Keeping the following criteria in mind when specifying carpet can add significant points to LEED certification.

Anne Galmor, product consultant for Intertech, specializes in advising clients that are working on LEED projects. “If clients are looking at carpet, I usually advise them to use carpet tile. Modular carpet will have more recycled content than broadloom, because tile backings often have recycled content,” Galmor explained. “The LEED value is based on the percentage of recycled material in furniture and furnishings by weight. When the carpet manufacturer lists recycled content, it’s in terms of the total volume of the product, not face fiber separate from backings.”

Other ways the carpet can help with LEED points is to have Green Label Plus certification for low emitting materials, which can contribute to the Indoor Environmental Quality credit. And, wool carpet contributes to LEED as rapidly renewable material.

Indoor Environmental Quality: up to 4.3 points
Points are earned for Low Emitting Materials. Carpet that carries the CRI Green Label can contribute to the Indoor Environmental Quality credit.

Recycled Content: 1-2 points
Materials, including furniture and furnishings, with recycled content such that the sum of post-consumer recycled content plus half of the pre-consumer content constitutes at least 10 percent or 20 percent based on cost of the total value of the materials in the project. The minimum percentage materials recycled for each point threshold is: 1 point for 10 percent recycled content and 2 points for 20 percent recycled content.
The recycled content value of a material is determined by weight. The recycled fraction of the assembly is then multiplied by the cost of assembly to determine the recycled content value.

Regional Materials: 1-2 points
Use a minimum of 20 percent of the combined value of construction and Division 12 (Furniture and Furnishings) materials and products that are manufactured within a radius of 500 miles. Or use a minimum of 10 percent of the combined value of construction and Division 12 materials and products extracted, harvested or recovered, as well as manufactured within 500 miles of the project.

Rapidly Renewable Materials: 1 point
Use rapidly renewable construction and Division 12 materials and products for 5 percent of the total value of all materials and products used in the project, based on cost. Rapidly renewable building materials and products are made from plants that are typically harvested within a 10-year or shorter cycle.

Innovation in Design: 1-5 points
Credit can be achieved through any combination of the Innovation in Design and Exemplary Performance paths.

• Path 1. Achieve significant, measurable environmental performance using a strategy not addressed in the LEED 2009 for Commercial Interiors Rating System. One point is awarded for each innovation achieved. No more than five points can be earned through Path 1.

• Path 2. Earn 1-3 exemplary performance points by achieving double the credit requirements and/or achieving the next incremental percentage threshold of an existing credit in the LEED 2009 for Commercial Interiors prerequisite or as specified in the LEED Reference Guide for Green Building Interior Design, 2009 Edition. One point is awarded for each exemplary performance achieved. No more than three points may be earned through Path 2.

• Path 3. Pilot Credit (1-5 points) Attempt a pilot credit available in the Pilot Credit Library at www.usgbc.org/pilotcreditlibrary. Register as a pilot credit participant and complete the required documentation. Projects may pursue up to 5 Pilot Credits total.

Hardwood
Resource Reuse: 1 point
Reuse building materials and products in order to reduce demand for virgin materials and to reduce waste, which reduces the impact associated with the extraction and processing of virgin resources. Use salvaged, refurbished or reused materials for at least 5 percent of building (construction) materials, excluding furniture and furnishings.

Resource Reuse: 1 point
1 point in addition to MR 3.1, same intent and requirements as above, except it is for at least 10 percent of building (construction) materials.

Recycled Content: 1-2 points
To achieve a point, the LEED project must use materials with recycled content so that the sum of post-consumer recycled content plus one-half of the pre-consumer content constitutes at least 10 percent (based on the cost of purchased materials) of the total value of the materials in the project. The recycled content value of a material is determined by weight. The recycled fraction is then multiplied by the cost to determine the recycled content value.

Additional recycled material content points are available by increasing the amount of post- and pre-consumer content to a total of 20 percent, based on the. cost of the total value of the materials in the project. Carol Goodwin, co-owner, Goodwin Heart Pine, based in Micanopy, Fla. has a unique way of gathering wood that counts for both MR 4 and MR 5 points. “We recover wood that gets lost downstream in rivers that are mostly close to our faculties,” she said.

Regional Materials: 1 point
Increase demand for building materials and products that are extracted and manufactured within the region, which supports the regional economy and reduces the environmental impacts resulting from transportation. Points are accumulated for a minimum of 20 percent of the combined value of construction materials and products manufactured within a radius of 500 miles of the construction site.

Regional Materials: 1 point
In addition to the requirements above, a point can be earned by using a minimum of 10 percent of the combined value of construction materials and products extracted, harvested or recovered, as well as manufactured, within 500 miles of the project.

Rapidly Renewable Materials: 1 point
Reduce the use and depletion of finite raw materials and long-cycle renewable materials by replacing them with rapidly renewable materials. Use rapidly renewable construction and materials and products, made from plants that are typically harvested within a 10-year or shorter cycle, for 5 percent of the total value (in dollars) of all materials and products used in the project.

Certified Wood: 1 point
To achieve a point, the LEED project must use a minimum of 50 percent of wood based materials and products, which are certified in accordance with the Forest Stewardship Council’s (FSC) principals and criteria for wood building components. For example, if project contractors purchase $10,000 worth of wood flooring product that is FSC certified and the total value of wood building components is $100,000, then project managers would need to source another $40,000 of FSC certified wood products to achieve this credit.

Hank Kasindorf, Principal, Eco Finishes is a FSC member and explains in detail what needs to be done, to achieve this credit. “You have to join the FSC and they tell you how to manage your forest and harvest your wood, so you do get the FSC certification,” he said. “Then they will come out and check on you. You have to maintain a chain of custody, from tress to the forest to the warehouse and keep FSC wood in a separate area. We keep our FSC wood in a room sealed with yellow tape around the area so it doesn’t get mixed up.”

Indoor Air Quality: 1 point
Establish minimum indoor air quality (IAQ) performance to enhance indoor air quality in the occupant space and contribute to the comfort and well being of the occupants. One point is available for low-emitting glues and finishes provided the IAQ passes testing.

Cork and Bamboo
Kevin Morrow, program manager for green building standards for the National Association of Home Builders, explained that alternative woods are a growing category for green building choices. “Cork and bamboo are both bio-based materials and are also rapidly renewable, meaning that the raw materials are replenished quickly as agricultural products and their use has a much shorter replacement term than, for example, some species of tropical hardwoods. They can also be quite durable, so the time between replacements is another benefit. They can also be quite attractive visually,” Morrow said.

Materials and Resources/Rapidly Renewable Materials: 1 point
Bamboo is a grass, not a tree. Bamboo flooring is harvested from the Moso series of bamboo plant, which is harvested every five and a half to seven years. The harvested plant leaves behind a thriving plant and new shoots. Cork, on the other hand, is actually harvested from peeling the bark from the cork tree. The initial harvest happens after a cork tree reaches 25 years of age and is able to be re-harvested every nine to 11 years.

Materials and Resources/Certified Wood: 1 point
Cork is mostly harvested from Portugal, where strict guidelines are put into place to make sure that harvesters are following procedure. Bamboo is mostly grown in China. In addition, FSC-certified cork and bamboo can add one point to a sustainable commercial installation if more than 50 percent of the flooring chosen is FSC-certified.

Low Emitting Materials/Adhesives and Sealants: 1 point
Using low-emitting adhesives and sealants on an alternative wood flooring installation can also contribute to points on the green building scale. In addition, many cork and bamboo companies are beginning to adopt the click system installation method that is becoming more prevalent in the hardwood industry. Click systems for cork and bamboo will enable less use of sealants and adhesives, aiding a green installation. If a sealant or adhesive must be used, it must comply with South Coast Air Quality Management District (SCAQMD) Rule 1168, while aerosol adhesives must comply with Green Seal Standard for Commercial Adhesives GS-36 requirements.

Low Emitting Materials/Flooring Systems: 1 point
There are two options for alternative wood flooring to qualify for this point. The first option is that cork and bamboo flooring must meet the requirements of FloorScore testing in order to qualify. Concrete, wood, bamboo and cork floor finishes such as sealer, stain and finish must meet the requirements of South Coast Air Quality Management District (SCAQMD) Rule 1113. The other option to achieve this point would be that all flooring products must meet the testing and product requirements of the California Department of Public Health Standard Practice for the Testing of VOC emissions from various sources using small-scale environmental chambers.

Ceramic tile
In addition to the point opportunities listed below, there are other points up for grabs, depending on the tile project. Innovation in design can contribute up to one point to five points, construction waste management can add another one to two points to the total and a range of one to two points can be added to the final tally for regional priority.

Materials and Resources Credit 3/Materials Reuse: 1-2 points
With programs going into effect to aid tile manufacturers with recycling tile, architects and designers may be able to take advantage of this credit. To do so, the project will have to show the use salvaged, refurbished or reused materials, the sum of which constitutes at least 5 percent or 10 percent, based on cost, of building (construction) materials, excluding furniture and furnishings.

Materials and Resources Credit 4/Recycled Materials: 1-2 points
With the growing use of recycled content in tile production, tile installations will be able to contribute to one or two of the LEED points available for recycled material. In order to do so, materials with recycled content must be used. The sum of post-consumer recycled content plus half of the pre-consumer content must constitute at least 10 percent to 20 percent based on cost of the total value of the materials in the project.

Low Emitting Materials/Adhesives and Sealants: 1 point
Although tile itself is such a low-emitting material that it does not need to be tested to make sure that it meets emissions standards, additional options surrounding a tile installation need to be considered. Adhesives that are used in a tile installation need to be compliant with air quality requirements. Adhesives, sealants and sealant primers must comply with South Coast Air Quality Management District (SCAQMD) rule 1168. In addition, aerosol Adhesives must comply with Green Seal Standard for Commercial Adhesives GS-36 requirements. According to the U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC), ways to promote this would be to specify low VOC products, evaluate products being used and review product cut sheets.

Low Emitting Materials/Flooring Systems: 1 point
Low emitting flooring systems has the intent to reduce the quantity of indoor air contaminants that are odorous, irritating and/or harmful to the comfort and well-being of installers and occupants. That being said, tile flooring installations can qualify for this point without being tested, but tile setting adhesives and grout must comply with South Coast Air Quality Management District (SCAQMD) rule 1168.

Installation
For a flooring project to qualify for Leadership for Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) certification, every point counts. Besides products, the way a project is installed can help amass points.

Allan Ellis, a Certified Floorcovering Installer, said that the points given for flooring installation are usually decided upon before the installer even begins the job. He also said that the conditions required to earn LEED points on installation jobs, such as air quality, have been standard installation procedure for years. “We just can’t use anything that anybody finds [offensive] — it can’t be too noisy, no gas fumes,” he said.

The following criteria will help any installer, contractor or general manager keep up with their installation projects:

Materials and Resources: up to 2 points
Before the flooring is installed, if anything needs to be cleared away from the site — between 10 percent and 20 percent of the total materials value — and it stays within 500 miles of the project site, the job can earn 1 to 2 points (1 point for 10 percent; 2 points for 20 percent).

Indoor Environmental Quality: 1 point
Maintain the air quality for installers, construction workers and building occupants by “flushing out” the area prior to occupancy or ventilating the area at a minimum of three hours prior to occupancy and continuing during occupancy. Flushing out a job site would require installing a new filtration media while maintaining an internal temperature of at least 60 degrees and relative humidity no higher than 60 percent.

This point can also come from testing the air quality using the EPA Compendium of Methods for the Determination of Air Pollutants to Indoor Air (find this information in the 2009 LEED Reference Guide for Green Building Design and Construction.)

Adhesives, Sealants and Sealant Primers: 1 point
All adhesives and sealants must comply with the South Coast Air Quality Management District Rule #1168. VOC limits must adhere to this rule in order to qualify for this point.

Floor Covering Weekly. LEED Handbook. June 06, 2011. http://fcw1.com/ME2/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=&type=Publishing&mod=Publications%3A%3AArticle&mid=8F3A7027421841978F18BE895F87F791&tier=4&id=F3CA9DF66D5F435AA79A2447FA36924B

Surface Wood Floor Finishes – Surface finishes are very popular today because they are durable, water-resistant and require minimal maintenance. Surface finishes are blends of synthetic resins. These finishes most often referred to as urethanes or polyurethane’s remain on the surface of the wood and form a protective coating. They are generally available in high-gloss, semi-gloss, satin and matte. Any one of the surface finishes are appropriate for the kitchen.

Types of Wood Floor Finishes

1. Oil-modified urethane is generally the most common surface finish and is easy to apply. It is a petroleum base with a blend of synthetic resins, plasticizers and other film forming ingredients that produces a durable surface that is moisture-resistant. It is a solvent-base polyurethane that dries in about eight hours. This type of finish ambers with age. and comes in different sheen levels.

2. Moisture-cured urethane is a solvent-base polyurethane that is more durable and more moisture resistant than other surface finishes. Moisture-cure urethane comes in non-yellowing and in ambering types and is generally available in satin or gloss. These finishes are extremely difficult to apply, have a strong odor and are best left to the professional.
Curing of this type of finish is by absorbing minute quantities of moisture vapor from the air, which causes them to dry and harden. The curing process is very dependant on relative humidity.

3. Water-based urethane is a water-borne urethane with a blend of synthetic resins, plasticizers and other film forming ingredients that produces a durable surface that is moisture-resistant. These finishes are clear and non-yellowing and are different sheen levels. They have a milder odor than oil-modified finishes have and they dry in about two to three hours. Water-based urethanes are generally more expensive.

4. Converstion-Varnish Sealers-(Swedish Finishes)- A two-component acid-curing, alcohol-based sealers. Because of their origin (country), conversion varnish sealers are often referred to as Swedish finishes

5. Penetrating Sealers – These sealers are spread on the floor and allowed to penetrate and are solvent based. The excess sealer is removed with rags or buffed in with synthetic or steel wool pads. This type of finish often have a color and can be used to stain and seal the wood floor. Penetrating Oil Sealers are made from tung or linseed oil, with additives improve drying and hardness.

6. Paste Wax- The oldest, and in some ways the best. Wax is the easiest to apply, least expensive, fastest drying, easiest to repair, and with proper care will survive forever. Wax over a penetrating stain, and the system is in the wood so you wear the wood, not the finish. Wax is spread in thin coats for a surface protection after the stain and/or sealer is applied, then buffed to the desired sheen.

7. Varnish- Vinyl-alkyd varnishes have superseded natural varnish made from vegetable oils. This product was commonly used before urethane finishes where introduced.

8. Lacquer – The flammability and incompatibility of this floor finish is NOT a recommended by many manufacturers. This finish should avoided.

9. Shellac – This product (natural shellac) contains wax and is not widely used for top coating in today’s wood flooring market. Dewaxed shellac is becoming used more and more for a wood floor sealer.

Commonly used wood floor finishes
Prefinished Hardwood Flooring (Wood floors that have been factory finished before they are installed)

1. Acrylic Impregnated – Acrylic monomers are injected into the cell structure of the wood to give increased hardness and then finished with a wear layer over the wood.

2. Acrylic-urethane – Has a slightly different chemical make up than polyurethane, but with similar benefits.

3. Aluminum Oxide – particles added to the polyurethane finish to increase the abrasion resistance of the wear layer. This has become extremely popular on the better grades of hardwood floors.

4. Ceramic – Advanced finish technology that allows the use of space-age ceramics to increase the abrasion resistance of the wear layer.

5. Polyurethane – A clear, tough and durable finish that is applied as a wear layer.

6. UV-cured – these floors are finished at the factory and the polyurethane finish are cured with Ultra Violet lights instead of using heat.

Floor Covering World. Wood Flooring Finishes. 2010. http://www.floorcoveringworld.com/wood-flooring-finishes/wood-flooring-finishes/

Hardwood flooring over concrete? Years ago there was only one way of doing so. Then it was the “sleeper on slab” system that involved fastening 2′ X 4′s to the concrete laid on their side, as shown in the image below courtesy of The National Oak Flooring Manufacturers Association (NOFMA). Prior to installing the sleepers, a poly film and/or #15 asphalt felt is laid over the slab for moisture protection and installed in cutback mastic.

While a sub-floor over concrete such as this application is not widely used today, it creates vertical height concerns. Final heights are in the 2 1/4″ range after the actual hardwood floor is nailed. This can cause problems with exterior door entries and other fixed objects. In some cases 3/4″ plywood is used above the sleepers, adding another 3/4″ or a total overall height of three inches is created. Using this method in new construction, one should plan well in advance to avoid vertical height concerns from one floor covering to another.

Better Method. Plywood Only On Concrete
The most popular method of installing solid 3/4″ hardwood floors on concrete today would be a plywood sub-floor attached to the slab (illustration below and left). Using a minimum 5/8″ CDX plywood, the material is installed over the same moisture barriers but it is attached by way of concrete fasteners. A variety of fasteners are used, including concrete cut nails, tapcons (concrete screws), and Hilti types. Methods vary from one region to another, or what professionals are accustomed to.

Floating Sub-floors
Other methods of using 3/4″ solid hardwood on concrete would be “floating sub-floors.” Yea…really…what’s a floating sub-floor you ask? The same moisture barriers would be used but two layers of 1/2″ plywood would be used. Plywood is installed opposite of one another, overlapped at the seams, then stapled or screwed together. The preference here is not to puncture the moisture barriers with fasteners.

Glue Plywood To Concrete
If the floating sub-floor doesn’t work for you, another method calls for gluing the plywood direct to concrete. In this situation a premium urethane adhesive is often recommended. Keeping the plywood adhered or flat can cause problems. The solution here is establishing kerf cuts on the backside of the plywood with a circular saw giving it better flexing properties.

Solid 3/4″ Gluedowns?
In recent years you may find some of the big box stores have been advocating this procedure. We only wish them the best, but have never been fond of this installation procedure. However, more upscale 3/4″ installations in Herringbone and large parquet patterns have proven successful over the years. These types involve much smaller pieces that will not expand and contract as much as more common 3/4″ hardwoods.

Other Methods of Installing Hardwood Floors On Concrete
In the past 30 years other applications have proven successful when installing hardwood floors on concrete. They include; engineered hardwood floors that basically float over any sub floor. Instead of nailing or stapling they are glued by tongue and groove only and float over a foam cushioned padding. Another popular method is gluing direct to the concrete sub-floor. The glue down of engineered products should only be considered with those knowledgeable to do so. It’s important to note not all engineered products can be floated. Always consult the manufacturers specifications and don’t rely on misinformed salespeople.

Floor Covering World. Installation of hardwood floors on concrete. 2010. http://www.floorcoveringworld.com/flooring-installation-info/installation-of-hardwood-floors-on-concrete/#more-193

The decision to update floors in a home is a decision that many consumers make each year. Whether their current floors are outdated or the homeowners are just ready for a change, each year millions of people hit the home improvement and flooring stores in search of the perfect product for their homes.

There are many factors to consider when you’re in the market for new floors. One of the most important things to remember is that finding the right flooring material to meet your needs is vital if you want to be happy with the finished product. While there are many different types of floors available to you, not all materials are going to provide you with what you’re looking for.

Here are a few things to consider when you are shopping around for the perfect flooring product.

Tip Number One: If you have kids, look for kid friendly floors
If you have young children in your home, it is important to remember that, although they are adorable, they are going to make messes. And lots of them.

But just because you know your little angels are going to wreak havoc on your home doesn’t mean you can’t have the floors you really want. There are many kid safe flooring materials out there that you can choose from.
If carpet is at the top of your list (which is a great flooring choice to have in kids’ rooms since the majority of their play time is spent on the floor) look for a durable carpet that cleans easily. Stainmaster carpets have always done well and are great for small children.

If you would rather have wood floors but are afraid of the maintenance and possible damage from your kids spilling liquids, wood laminate floors may be the perfect alternative. Laminate is available in many different colors and wood looks. It is easy to maintain and a breeze to clean.

If carpet and wood or wood laminate don’t seem like the right choice for your home, there are other materials available that work well with kids, including tile, vinyl and eco-friendly options like concrete and cork. Tile is great for clean-ups and is fairly durable. Although concrete can definitely jazz up a space and is extremely durable, it is obviously very hard and may not be a great choice if you have small children who tend to play a lot in the house.

Tip Number Two: Do your homework
Before you head out to the store to look for your new floors, spend a little time online doing your research. Make a list of what you want in flooring materials and look for the best match. New flooring options are emerging everyday and unconventional flooring products are becoming more and more popular in homes and businesses.

Find out what your options are before you make a blind choice. If you are well informed before you head out to make a purchase, you will be much happier with your overall finished product.

Tip Number Three: Beware of maintenance
If you aren’t the kind of person who likes to clean or who likes to maintain things, there are certain flooring products you just aren’t going to like. Keep in mind that all floors require some type of maintenance, whether it is regular cleaning or sealing, but some floors require more treatment than others. When you are researching flooring choices, be sure to look up what is required to maintain the floors once they are installed. You can always talk to a sales associate at a local home improvement or flooring store for additional advice.

Now that you are armed with facts and information, head out to the stores and find the right product for your home. Remember, it’s not important what the sales associate, your neighbor or your mother-in-law wants you to get. Choosing the right floors for you is what’s most important throughout the process.

Flooring News. What to look for when Shopping for new Floors. February 15, 2011. http://www.flooringnews.com/what-to-look-for-when-shopping-for-new-floors/

The old saying “money is no object” is not used as freely as is used to be these days. The economy is down and for most people, money is tight.

While money may not be flowing in right now, some consumers see this downward economy as an opportunity to make a purchase when other consumers aren’t. This tactic could give you a bit of wiggle room and act as a pretty good bargaining tool when shopping for products.

Consumers who are taking advantage of the dip in the economic climate and are looking to purchase new flooring materials may also be toying with the notion of installing the new floors on their own. While many consumers are fully capable of installing new floors and have done it many times throughout their lives, some homeowners may be in over their heads if they try to tackle this job alone.

Installing new flooring, weather it’s carpet, tile, wood or laminate is something that you want to make sure you do right the first time. Improperly installing floors is only going to make the process more difficult and cost you more money in the long run.

Anytime you purchase new floors, talk to the sales associate and see what specials they are offering. Oftentimes sales people will throw in installation for free if you meet the minimum purchase price for the materials. Some stores run specials on installation, and it is always a good idea to ask. Don’t be afraid to use your bargaining and negotiating skills. Sales associates and managers have more wiggle room than they lead on.

If you can’t seem to find a cheap installation price, or you’re determined to install the floor yourself, there are a few things you will need to do before you begin. Before you get started, running out to the book store and buying a book on floor installation (aimed at the material you are installing) can be a life saver. Installation books will tell you what tools you need, how long the process will take, and give you a step-by-step guide to properly installing floors. Laying carpet and tile will most likely require tools you may not own, such as a knee kicker or a tile cutter or tile saw, which you can rent or purchase from local hardware and home improvement stores.

Different flooring materials will obviously require different installation techniques. Tile will need to be cut and installed on a clean surface. While it is usually laid on subflooring – otherwise known as plywood – there is mortar available at your local hardware store that allows you to install tile on top of tile which can save you the hassle of ripping up the existing tile before installing the new material.

Always remember to take your time and use your best discretion. If you just are not a handyman or handywoman, you may want to seek out some help from a friend or family member who has experience with installing new floors. You’ll be much happier with a clean, properly installed finished product than a new floor that doesn’t look professionally installed.

Flooring News. To Self Install or not to Self Install? March 1, 2011. http://www.flooringnews.com/to-self-install-or-not-to-self-install/

Think all wood floors are alike? Think again! The many styles available today mean that you can achieve a unique look that expresses your own personal style.

The basic style of wood floor you choose is essential to creating the overall look you’re trying to achieve in a room.

Strip Flooring
Strip flooring is linear flooring, usually 2¼”, but ranging from 1½” to 3″, or 3¼” wide. It creates a linear design effect which promotes the illusion of a larger space. Strip flooring generally is considered “traditional” wood flooring.

Plank Flooring
Plank flooring is also linear; however, it is wider — featuring 3″ to 7″ or wider boards. While plank is linear, its wider widths often create a more casual look. Because wide plank floors respond more readily to moisture fluctuations, they can be more prone to cup when excessive moisture is present in the subfloor. A wood flooring professional can help prevent this. A general rule of thumb is that the wider the plank, the more expertise will be required to successfully install the floor.

Parquet Flooring
Parquet flooring varies in size and generates a geometric look.

Parquet flooring design patterns can vary in size and can be very simple or extremely elaborate. The patterns can be very subtle when using just one species of wood, or they can become rich and intricate when created from a variety of species.

Fabulous Floors Magazine. Whats your favorite wood flooring style? Spring 2008. http://www.fabulousfloorsmagazine.com/archive/browser.php-IssueNumber=17&ArticleNumber=21.html

Area Rugs:
Area Rugs are also woven or felted from fibers, but are smaller than the room in which they are located, have a finished edge, and usually lie over another finished floor such as wood flooring. Rugs may either be temporarily attached to the flooring below by adhesive tape or other methods to prevent creep, or may be loose-laid.

Resilient Flooring:
Resilient flooring includes many different manufactured products including linoleum, sheet vinyl, vinyl composition tile, cork (sheet or tile), and others.

Wood Flooring:
Many different species of wood are fabricated into wood flooring in two primary forms: plank and parquet. Bamboo flooring is also available. While bamboo is technically not a wood, bamboo flooring is installed and functions much like wood flooring. Reclaimed lumber has a unique appearance and is green.

Ceramic Tile:
Ceramic tile includes a wide variety of clay products fired into thin units which are set in beds of mortar or mastic with the joints between tiles grouted. Varieties include quarry tile, porcelain tile, terra cotta tile, and others.

Stone:
Many different natural stones are cut into a variety of sizes, shapes, and thicknesses for use as flooring. Stone flooring is usually set in mortar and grouted similar to ceramic tile.

Terrazzo:
Terrazzo consists of marble or other stone aggregate set in mortar and ground and polished to a smooth surface.

Seamless Chemical Flooring:
Many different seamless flooring materials are available. These are usually latex, polyester, or epoxy compounds which are applied in liquid form to provide a completely seamless floor covering. These are usually found in wet areas such as laboratories or food processing plants.

Other Floorings:
Linoleum
Marble
Mosaic
Parquetry
Performance surface flooring for dance or athletics
Rubber
Tile Includes slate, ceramic and stone tiles

Flooring Tools:
Special tools used for flooring include:
* Flooring clamp, a clamp for tongue and groove floors while nailing
* Knee kicker, used to stretch carpets flat

Floor Features:
There are a number of special features that may be used to ornament a floor or perform a useful service:
* Floor medallions decorative centerpieces of a floor design
* Doormats to help keep a floor clean
* Gratings used to drain water or to rub dirt off shoes
* Tactile or rumble strips to warn of for instance a wheelchair ramp, these would normally also be distinctively coloured or patterned.
* Light strips to show an escape route out, especially on airplanes.
* Mouldings or baseboards to decorate the sides of a floor. or to cover the edge of a floating floor.

Issues With Floors:
Wood floors, particularly older ones, will tend to ‘squeak’ in certain places. This is caused by the wood rubbing against other wood, usually at a joint of the subfloor. Firmly securing the pieces to each other with screws or nails will remove this problem.

Floor vibration is a particularly annoying problem with floors. Wood floors tend to pass sound, particularly heavy footsteps and low bass frequencies. Floating floors can reduce or eliminate this problem. Concrete floors are usually so solid they do not have this problem, but are also much more expensive to construct, and much heavier, resulting in further requirements regarding the structure of the building.

The flooring may need protection sometimes e.g. a gym floor used for a graduation ceremony. A Gym floor cover can be used to reduce the need to satisfy incompatible requirements.

Floor Cleaning:
Floor cleaning is a major occupation throughout the world. Cleaning is essential to prevent injuries due to slips and to remove dirt. Floors are also treated to protect or beautify the surface. The correct method to clean one type of floor can often damage another, so it is important to use the correct treatment. See floor cleaning for more details.

Subfloor Construction:
The subfloor provides the strength of a floor. Many floors have no separate floor covering on top. The subfloor may also provide services like underfloor heating or ducts for air conditioning.
A ground-level floor can be an earthen floor made of soil, or be solid ground floors made of concrete slab. Floors above may be built on beams or joists or use structures like hollow core slabs.

Ground Floor Construction:
Ground-level slab floors are prepared for pouring by grading the base material so that it is flat, and then spreading a layer of sand and gravel. A grid of rebar is usually added to reinforce the concrete, especially if it will be used structurally, i.e. to support part of the building.

Upper Floor Construction:
Floors in woodframe homes are usually constructed with joists that are centered no more than 16 inches or 40 centimeters apart, according to most building codes.[citation needed] Heavy floors, such as those made of stone, are more closely-spaced. If the span between load-bearing walls is too long for joists to safely support, then a heavy crossbeam (thick or laminated wood, or a metal I-beam or H-beam) may have to be used. A ‘subfloor’ of plywood or waferboard is then laid over the joists.

FlooringPedia. The Flooring Encyclopedia. 1995-2011. http://www.flooringpedia.com/

Manufacturers continue to introduce new models and new types with myriad bells and whistles and claimed benefits. There are even model designed to use ultraviolet light to kill dust mites.
Given this crowded market filled with topnotch performers as well as middling models, it’s essential to match the type of vacuum you choose to the kind of cleaning you typically do. Below you’ll find a description of the common types and the pros and cons of each.

UPRIGHT
Best for deep-cleaning carpets. Most upright vacuums are less expensive and easier to store than canister vacuums.
But you must push and pull the entire machine for most floor and carpet cleaning. When you’re vacuuming on stairs, an upright is less stable than canister models.
Price: $100 to $500 for most models.

CANISTER
Best for cleaning bare floors, and stairs, drapes, and upholstery using tools. Canisters are more stable on stairs than uprights. The head fits under furniture, and you move only the head and hose.
But the entire machine tends to be heavier, bulkier, and pricier. Most aren’t as effective on carpets.
Price: $150 to $700 for most models.

STICK SWEEPER
Best for light cleaning of carpets, bare floors, and edges. These suction-less sweepers are relatively quiet and have long battery run times.
But they’re not designed to deep-clean carpets, and on bare floors they might scatter debris, such as rice, kitty litter, and other common spills for which they’re designed.
Price: $20 to $80

STICK VACUUM
Best for light-duty cleaning on short-pile carpets and bare floors.
But they have trouble cleaning larger items off carpet and deliver shorter run times than sweepers, and some are no easier to push than full-size vacuums.
Price: $30 to $100

WET/DRY
Best for cleaning heavy dust, remodeling debris, liquids, and other tougher messes.
But dust emissions are high with some models. The largest can be hard to maneuver and store; the cheapest often aren’t very effective. All are noisy.
Price: $30 to $150 for most models

HAND
Best for spot cleanups on carpets and bare floors.
But you need to stoop when using one, and most handhelds lose power quickly, making them suitable only for occasional use.
Price: $20 to $60

ROBOTIC
Best for their novelty and low effort between regular vacuuming in uncluttered rooms.
But they’re expensive as a group and time-consuming to set up and run. In our test, most also tended to miss edges and corners.
Price: $200 to $1,800

CENTRAL SYSTEM
Best for canister-like cleaning without carrying the body. They tend to be relatively quiet and can be emptied infrequently. But central vacs are pricey and often require professional installation. The 30-foot hose can be cumbersome and takes up storage space,  and there’s no place to carry tools while you work. 

Floor Covering World. Buy The Right Vacuum Cleaner. 2010. http://www.floorcoveringworld.com/floor-cleaning-info/buy-the-right-vacuum-cleaner/